Other features that make chameleons unique include their tongue, which is used to catch prey. The tongue can be up to 1.5 times the length of the body, allowing chameleons to effectively catch insects from a distance. They live in trees, and their feet have three toes pointing one way and two the other, giving them a good grip. Many species also have a prehensile tail, meaning it is also used to grip branches. They have globular eyes which rotate like turrets and move independently, allowing a chameleon to scan a wide radius around them for both hunting and protection. They are largely insectivorous, although some species eat some vegetation and some small invertebrates such as slugs.
When selecting a chameleon, it is without question best to find a captive bred one. Wild caught specimens are usually extremely stressed, carry a heavy parasite load, and difficult to acclimate to captive conditions. Chameleons are not the hardiest nor easiest reptile to keep and starting with a stressed pet will only make matters worse. In addition, the capture and shipping of chameleons (which fortunately is being more tightly regulated) results in the death of many animals due to stress, dehydration or starvation - many more die in transit than make it to the pet store. (The same can be said for many exotic pet species.) Observe the chameleon - it should be bright and active, able to change colors, and have a well fleshed body. Some experienced chameleon keepers recommend a male, especially for the beginner, as their nutritional needs are somewhat simpler and they seem a little more hardy. Being territorial and solitary animals, chameleons should be kept singly. In any case, two males should never be kept together as they will be very aggressive with each other.
There are several species kept as pets, the most common being the veiled, Jackson's, and panther chameleons. Veiled chameleons are large (up to 2 feet long) and need a suitably large enclosure, but are fairly hardy. Jackson's chameleons are smaller (need less space), and the males look like little triceratops with three horns on the head, but they are not as hardy. Panther chameleons are also quite large (males are much larger than females), and exhibit some striking colors.
The natural habits of chameleons make them tricky to care for - they are arboreal, living exclusively in trees. They are solitary, and easily stressed. As a result, they need a cage with ample foliage for climbing and privacy. The enclosure must be quite large - for the larger chameleons a minimum of 3 feet by 3 feet by 4 feet tall should be provided - but the more space the better. Ample ventilation is required, and a cage screened on three sides is best, with poly mesh or vinyl coated wire preferred to prevent injury due to toes becoming caught. Lots of branches of various diameters need to be provided for climbing and the bulk of the cage space should be filled with branches or live foliage. Ensure that the plants are not toxic, as the chameleon may sample the foliage. Some enthusiasts recommend avoiding ficus plants as well. Substrate made up of small particles (gravel, sand, bark, moss) should be avoided to prevent the chameleon from accidentally eating it while catching prey. Several basking areas of various temperatures must also be provided, ranging from the upper limit of the species temperature preference to the loser end of the range, to allow the chameleons to thermoregulate. Jackson's chameleons do well at lower temperatures, but panther and veiled chameleons prefer warmer temperatures. Readers are referred to the sites and care sheets listed below for specific temperature and humidity requirements for the different species.
Chameleons do best with access to natural sunlight, but this is not feasible as a sole source of UV radiation for most owners. Incandescent and full spectrum (UV) fluorescent lighting is necessary. In addition, allowing some exposure to natural sunlight through an open window (glass filters out nearly all of the necessary UV radiation) will help keep chameleons happy and healthy (or placing the chameleon outdoors if the weather is appropriate, providing adequate shade to prevent overheating).
Chameleons get their water from droplets on leaves - as a rule they will not take water from a dish. Adequate water intake must be provided either through a drip system or by misting the enclosure at least twice daily. Drip systems can be purchased or fashioned from a water container with a pinhole placed on top of the cage, or even by placing ice cubes on top of the cage to melt slowly and drip into the cage. If a drip system is used, keep the watering location consistent so the chameleon knows where to find water. Misting will also help keep the humidity levels up. If a drip system is used, the excess water should be collected and removed though, to prevent the humidity from getting to high.
Chameleons seem to do best on a variety of insect foods. Try to feed as many types of insects as possible. Crickets, meal worms, super worms, wax worms, wax moths, non infesting roaches are all good items to feed. Prey food should be gut loaded with nutritious foods (leafy greens, vegetables, fruit) prior to feeding, and should be dusted with a calcium and vitamin D supplement. Chameleons may be susceptible to overdosing with vitamin A (hypervitaminosis A) so supplements must be balanced carefully. Again, the care sheets below cover details of supplementation. Keep in mind that egg laying females will need extra calcium supplies. Also, some nutritious leafy green (avoid spinach, lettuce, and cabbage) and other vegetables and fruits can be offered in small amounts as chameleons will occasionally sample these.
Chameleons are easily stressed, so cages should be placed in low traffic areas (a quiet room is ideal), and barriers (e.g. lots of foliage in the cage) between the chameleon and household activity should be provided. Avoid handling the chameleon and when observing the chameleon move slowly. They are fascinating and amazing, but need some special considerations to keep them stress free and healthy.
Chameleons are an intriguing reptile pet, but require specialized knowledge for successful keeping. Information regarding various aspects of husbandry such as species choice, housing, feeding and health are all essential if these curious creatures are to survive in captivity. With their independently rotating eyes, opposable toes and long tongues they are certainly one of the most amusing of pets. They are certainly not a pet for a novice reptile owner or a child. If you choose to take on the responsibility of owning one of these fascinating creatures, it is essential that you research all aspects of chameleon care, especially housing and feeding. If these two requirements are not adequate, the animal will not survive. It would be totally irresponsible to take on the responsibility for the life of this animal without acquiring the necessary knowledge to provide for its most basic needs.
Species Selection
Each species of chameleon will have different requirements in terms of housing, temperature, and feeding and therefore you must learn specifically about the type of chameleon you own. Ensure that the animal you purchase is captive bred. It is irresponsible to take an animal from it's own habitat in the wild just to have one as a pet. Wild caught specimens are also less likely to thrive than captive bred stock. All chameleons react poorly to stress and handling, but captive bred animals are slightly more tolerant. The more common captive varieties are easier to maintain, breed more readily, and are therefore less expensive. The veiled chameleon is readily available, and is a good choice for a committed chameleon owner.
Health
Knowledge of chameleon husbandry is limited, and specialized veterinary care for these rare exotics is almost nonexistent in most areas. Once a captive chameleon is on a downhill slide, the unfortunate result is inevitable, even with veterinary intervention. You must find a healthy specimen and follow every recommended guideline in order to maintain health. This cannot be stressed enough. Otherwise you are doomed to failure.
You must be vigilant about your chameleon's behavior, and try and correct any problems at the earliest stage. If a chameleon ignores food, or loses it's appetite for even one day, that is an indication of a major problem. If the eyes appear sunken, or the skin tents when pulled slightly, the animal could be dehydrated. If it has difficulty climbing or supporting it's weight it may have severe nutritional deficiencies or metabolic bone disease. If the animal appears thin, with a traceable line alongside the backbone and tail that becomes increasingly obvious with time, it is unlikely that the animal will survive more than a few weeks, and you should seek the help of a highly experienced reptile keeper for advice and hand holding.
Housing
Chameleons are arboreal animals, meaning that they live in trees. A pet chameleon will only thrive if you supply housing that closely resembles their natural habitat. They require a large enclosure with a minimum of ten cubic feet filled with vegetation for camouflage and exercise. A vertical enclosure containing a live ficus tree and climbing pathos vines is ideal. In order to minimize stress on the animal, the cage should be located in a quiet area with minimal human contact. The best cages are made of a mesh, which allows good ventilation, rather than glass. Although glass aquariums are often used for reptiles, they do not allow sufficient air movement for chameleons, and should be avoided. The long rectangular shape is also not ideally suited to housing a climbing animal. A substrate such as reptibark or sand can be used on the cage bottom. However, to avoid the chameleon ingesting the substrate, it is wise to offer insect meals in a container.
The chameleon will need a thermal gradient within the enclosure from 70 degrees to 95 degrees Farenheit, which is achieved through placement of heating lamps above the cage. This will allow the animal to thermoregulate (raise and lower body temperature) as necessary by basking in a warm spot, or moving to a cooler location. Heat rocks are not suitable, as the chameleon will not crawl to the bottom of the enclosure to find the warmth. In addition, a fluorescent light, such as a Vitalite, which produces sufficient quantities of UV radiation, is absolutely necessary for calcium metabolism. Even special incandescent reptile bulbs that claim to have UV spectrum are not sufficient for the needs of this animal.
Feeding
Chameleons are insect predators in the wild, and will only feed on live, moving prey.
Variety is essential to the diet of a healthy animal. Unfortunately, the types of live food available from the local pet shop are often limited to crickets, mealworms, waxworms and the occasional pinkie mouse. The grocery bill for feeding a mature chameleon can total more than $25.00 per week. You may want to try "field plankton" by sweeping a net through the outdoor vegetation. However, with the common use of pesticides in urban areas, the few insects caught would be laced with poison, making a rather unhealthy meal for your animal. Vitamin and mineral supplementation is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. Without regular supplementation of the food supply with calcium powder (phosphorus free) daily and multivitamins twice per week, the animal will soon develop nutritional deficiencies. Also, "gutload" the live food by feeding the crickets or mealworms with fish flakes and veggies immediately before feeding the chameleon. The animal will get the advantages of a more herbivorous diet when it digests the stomach contents of the insects. Moving water must also be supplied by means of a drip system or a melting icecube, as chameleons will not drink from a static waterdish.
