Get a good book on hedgehogs
Be hedgehog savvy. Read up on your future companion before looking for one. This will help you to identify the type of hedgehog you are looking for, as well as helping you with the questions that you need to ask (see next step). In addition, it will confirm in your mind if a hedgehog is the right pet for you.
Visit a reputable breeder if possible. If not, find a reputable pet store to purchase a healthy hedgehog. The seller should know the age, background and condition of the hedgehog - ask questions along these lines:
How old is the hedgehog? A hedgehog (hoglet) should be at least 6 weeks old before you take it home.
Where did the hedgehog come from? (Ask for any "pedigree" papers if relevant).
What have you been feeding the hedgehog? This will help you to determine the condition of the hedgehog and whether changes are needed or if the diet has been a good one.
Do you have a licence to sell the hedgehog? In the US, a hedgehog seller must have a USDA license.
Can I return the hedgehog if things don't work out? Be clear on this from the outset. There are two considerations: replacement hedgehogs for a loss from illness (including genetic illness) or simply a return/exchange for a hedgehog that doesn't get along with you.
Pick up the hedgie
Consider the following things for yourself when you pick up a potential pet; look closely at the hedgehog you're considering and ask yourself:
Look for clean bright eyes
Does the hedgehog have clean, bright eyes? Do not consider a hedgehog with runny eyes or conjunctivitis. Same for eyes that are half-closed, sunken or droopy; this is unlikely to indicate a healthy hedgehog.
Look for a clean nose
Does the hedgehog have a clean nose? Again, don't choose a hedgehog with a runny nose. Listen to the breathing; if you hear any rasping noises, be wary of the possibility of a respiratory infection.
Are the ears clean? Any discharge or scabs should be queried. Nibbled patches are usually caused by close proximity to siblings and as long as these are properly healed, they can be dismissed as being a problem.
Check for a soft & knot-free belly
Is the underbelly soft and clear of tangles?
Set it down and watch it walk. Use commonsense in assessing the gait; if it walks normally, all is probably fine. If it wobbles, limps or winces, the hedgehog is not likely to be in healthy condition.
Is the hedgehog responsive? Your chosen hedgehog should be alert and interested. A lethargic hedgehog is a sign that all is not well.
Shiny quills, no missing quills
Check the quills (spines). These are a very good indicator of health. If there are any bare spots missing quills or unusual discoloration, the hedgehog may not be in good health.
Check for a healthy weight
Check the weight of the hedgehog. You could ask for the weight but you should also try to assess the overall look of the hedgehog for yourself. You don't want an emaciated hedgehog (caved-in stomach); it should look well-rounded and plump. On the other side, you don't want an overweight
Check the ability to roll into a ball.
hedgehog who cannot roll into a ball.
Check the ability to roll into a ball.
Ask about any injuries or scabs. If you see injuries or scabs, ask the seller how these occurred. Consider carefully whether this will affect your ability to keep the hedgehog. It is one thing to have healed quill wounds from close confinement; it is another to have a blind hedgehog unless you are truly dedicated.
Check for mites! If the skin is crusty around the base of the quills, the skin may be infested with mites or fleas. Alternatively, it could be a sign of dry skin. Either way, ask the seller what is being done to treat this problem and be prepared to keep up the treatment if you choose this hedgehog, until the problem is resolved.
Test the temperament of your chosen hedgehog:
Some hedgies are very adventurous...
Does the hedgehog unroll when you pick it up? Just as with people, hedgehogs are personalities in their own right. A shy hedgehog will take longer to unroll than a more outgoing one.
There is nothing wrong with a shy pet; it is only your expectations that can mar a relationship with such a pet. If you want a more outgoing hedgehog, pick one that unrolls more readily and doesn't mind you handling it so much. It is likely that a hedgehog that has been handled a lot will be more responsive. Ask
While some are just naturally more shy...
the seller about its habits if you can't see them for yourself.
While some are just naturally more shy...
Does the hedgehog click at you? Normal hedgehog noises include cheeping and purring sounds. If the hedgehog makes clicking sounds, it is behaving threateningly and will be unlikely to make a suitable pet.
In general, the personality is not gender-specific, so you can choose a male or a female according to your wants. It is the personality and behaviour that you should be looking at closely.
Be 100% certain. A tame hedgehog cannot live in the wild. Its life is now with you. Be totally sure that you want this companion for the next half a decade of your life before purchasing it.
Tips
Ask for proof of veterinarian checks; don't take the seller's word for it. Even if you don't need to ask about vet checks, it may be useful to ask about a vet who cares for hedgehogs, for future purposes.
In some respects, choosing a hoglet is like choosing a kitten: the more outgoing ones will be seen crawling about, unrolling playfully and behaving in an extrovert fashion; the quiet, shy and cuddly ones are also exhibiting their traits.Choose the personality that suits your needs and wants.
Hedgehogs are solitary beings, preferring not to have a cage-mate. Females tolerate another female better than two males or a mix. However, if you wish to own more than one hedgehog, it is advisable to keep them separately.
Hedgehogs live 3 - 7 years. Hedgehog age can affect bonding with you but is not as pronounced as with some animals. If you're the rescuing type, take an older hedgehog needing a home; if you're the "pet for long term" type, get your hedgehog younger.
Hedgehogs make good pets. They are easily tamed and they do not take up a lot of space. They are intelligent, friendly and enjoyable company for a dedicated owner. Here are some basic tips for looking after your hedgehog.
On bringing it into your house for the first time, leave it alone for the first day in its new cage so that it feels unthreatened and becomes familiar with its surroundings and the smells.
Hedgehog palace
Provide a good house. Hedgehogs need a large cage to be comfortable in. The house should:
Be large. The cage should be a minimum of 18" x 24". The more space available, the better, as this will ensure plenty of room for toys and exercise. Include space for food bowls, toys and litter tray when considering buying or making a cage.
Be well-ventilated. Air flow should be available all the time. The only time you should impede airflow is if the room rapidly drops in temperature (for example, during a power outage) and you need to wrap the cage with a blanket.
Include a hiding spot. As a prey animal in the wild, hedgehogs need a safety zone for "time-out" from prying eyes, light and general activity.
Ensure a suitable temperature. Hedgehogs like the same room temperature as we do, at around 65ºF to 85ºF. If it is too warm, the hedghog will become sleepy or may even become heat-stressed; too cold and it may try to hibernate. Adjust the temperature if you see signs of wanting to sleep a lot. Also keep a light on in the area of the hedgehog's cage during winter months to simulate longer daylight.
Bedding material
Select good bedding material. Hedgehogs like wood shavings (but see "Warnings" below) or newspaper for their bedding. Good wood shavings include pine or aspen. Ground corn cob is another possible choice. Ask at your pet store for more ideas.
Be attentive to the needs of the hedgehog. The hedgehog will need:
Low level of noise. Don't house the hedgehog under your stereo player or near a boombox. As a prey animal in the wild, too much noise and activity around your hedgehog will be very distressing. Ensure that noise, lighting and activity levels are low in its vicinity and move the cage if the noise levels increase for any reason.
Ability to exercise. Hedgehogs tend towards putting on weight, so exercise is a must for them. This means plenty of toys, including a hedgehog wheel. Toys should be something they can chew, push, nuzzle and even tip over. All of this is mimicking natural foraging behaviour.
Feeding time - hedgehog kibble
Feed your hedgehog properly. Hedgehogs are omnivorous (plant and animal food), with a preference for insects in the wild. They tend towards plumpness, so care must be taken with the diet to prevent a hedgehog putting on too much weight. An overweight hedgehog cannot roll up and may have rolls of fat hanging down which will impede its walking ability. Consider feeding:
A variety of food. Feed a variety of food to avoid nutritional deficiencies associated with a single food type. There is special hedgehog food available (follow instructions on packet) but many owners find that cat food is a good start (about one tablespoon a day), supplemented with cooked rice, cooked beans, cooked pasta etc. Mealworms and crickets are also an important addition to the hedgehog's diet. Other additions that are fine include pieces of apple, carrot, spinach, banana, grapes etc.
A hedgehog needs about 70 - 100 calories a day but like most creatures offered more food, they will eat more if given.
Result if the bowl is not heavy enough...
Provide a food bowl that is wide enough for the hedgehog to access and heavy enough so that the hedgehog cannot tip it over (and start playing with it).
Provide a water bottle with a drinking tube. This ensures better quality water. It also prevents the potential for overloading with cage shavings or its being accidentally tipped. Importantly, you will be able to see how much water is being consumed.
Provide a litter box. Make sure it is large enough for the hedgehog and clean it every day. Keep an eye for any irregular bowel movements which could indicate distress or illness.
Clean the hedgehog's home regularly. Clean the dishes and water bottle tube daily with hot, soapy water. Clean out the cage about every 2 - 3 days.
Handle gently and frequently. A hedgehog's familiarity with being handled comes with being handled frequently. Always be gentle and use slow movements and speak softly when handling your hedgehog.
Be prepared for "quilling". Quilling is the hedgehog equivalent of us losing baby teeth. This happens at approximately 3 months of age and then one more time again as the baby quills make way for adult quills. This is a normal process and not something to worry about unless there are signs of illness or discomfort present. Your hedgehog may be irritable during this process and less amenable to being held. It is only a phase.
Petting is bonding time
Make time for play. As well as gently handling your hedgehog, don't be afraid to join in with gentle play. Your hedgehog will accept your involvement in play if you join in regularly.
Do not let a hedgehog hibernate when in captivity.
React to your hedgehog bites:
Hedgehogs make adorable pets but they have a little habit that makes owning them a little tricky - they bite when they are alarmed or unfamiliar with a situation or a person. If you happen to be the recipient of a hedgehog bite, it will be painful and the main bodily regions affected are the hand, arm, foot, ankle or leg. Basically, whatever part of your body is in the way at the time it is alarmed!
Note the triggers that might cause your hedgehog to bite. A hedgehog usually bites for one of the following reasons:
It is afraid
It has been surprised or alarmed
It is reacting in defense
It is hungry
Be aware that once a hedgehog bites, it will not let go quickly. The reason for this is that hedgehogs are insectivorous. This means that once they catch an insect, they hang on until the prey gives up its struggle.
Do not try to shake off the hedgehog. This will simply trigger its instinct to hang on even more tightly.
Be patient. Provided that you wait as still as you can (yes, in spite of the pain you will be experiencing), the hedgehog will gradually let go.
See your doctor immediately. You will probably need a tetanus shot and possibly some other forms of treatment, including antibiotics. Hedgehog saliva may harbor numerous bacterial diseases.
Do not punish your hedgehog. First, the concept of punishment is a human one and does not transfer to other animals. Animals respond well to praise, consistency and repetition but not sudden cruelty out of the blue (or repeated cruelty either for that matter of fact). Put it down to experience. Try to pinpoint what caused your hedgehog to bite you and remove the trigger. If it was hungry, be sure to feed it adequate, high quality food. Remove anything that might be stressing the hedgehog, including bright lights at night and any sources of sudden movement such as curtains blowing in the breeze or people passing by loudly.
Tip:
If you wish to keep more than one hedgehog, it is advisable to keep them separately. Hedgehogs are solitary creatures, preferring their own company. If they are kept together in the same cage, you will have sleepless nights as they fight.
Unless you intend to do not buy a male and female. By one of nature's unhelpful quirks, hedgehog females can breed from as early as 8 weeks, although they are not really able to breed safely until around 5 months of age.
Toys can be as simple as a piece of wood and old kids' toys
Hedgehog toys can be similar to those given to dogs: rubber balls, rawhide chews, old kids' toys, rubber figures, baby teething rings etc.
If your house temperature is too cold, consider providing electrical heating pads in the cage (human or reptile).
Warning!!!
Do not use cedar shavings; it can mix with hedgehog urine and form fumes which are toxic to hedgehogs.
Do not confuse normal quilling with loss of quills caused by mite damage, infection or poor diet. If you are in any doubt, see a vet.
Watch for too much sleepiness
Do not allow "semi-hibernation" to occur. This is very dangerous because the hedgehog is not hibernating properly but is using up its reserves and fading away. If you suspect this, try to warm the hedgehog under your jacket next to your body and turn up the heating, If the hedgehog does not revive or does not seem alert, see a vet immediately. Keep the house warm. from anywhere to 70 to 90 degrees
ANNOINTING:
Hedgehog's have this funny little habit of annointing themselves when they come upon a scent or taste that we assume they particulary like. If you ever see your hedgie turning around and licking itself, leaving a large foamy patch on their spines from their tongues, do not panic! This is a strange, but very normal behavior.
Here is a picture of it:
"Quilling" is equivalent to human babies teething, except your hedgehog will not be losing teeth...he will lose quills. The first time occurs at about the age of 3 months, and then again a few months later. During this time your hedgehog will shed his baby quills and grow in the adult ones. You will know this is happening two ways:
1. You will find numerous quills laying around your hedgehog's cage and all over your house.
BEWARE: It is a well known theory amongst seasoned hedgehog owners that these little guys take great pleasure is sharpening those shedding quills so that their extra sharp when we step on them with our bare feet!
2.Your hedgehog will begin to act cranky and very sensitive to your touch.
Do not despair, this is a natural process they all go through and it won't last forever.
***Do not confuse this short period of quill loss and replacement with other true disorders that can cause the loss of quills such as: mites, an insufficient diet, hormonal issues etc... These problems need to be addressed by your Vet.
***On a serious note though, quilling can be uncomfortable for your little one, and often a nice warm bath with an oatmeal based soap can help soothe their irritated skin. You can find these soaps at any Health Food Store.
HIBERNATION:
In the wild, hedgehogs will typically fatten up in the warmer months to get ready to survive their winter hibernation. In captivity it is a whole other ball game. While your hedgehog might get cool enough to think it needs to go into a partial-hibernation mode, it won't be a true hibernation, and the animal will simply dwindle away and die. So what does it mean if one day you find your hedgehog feeling cold, lethargic, and curled into a ball, and when you try to wake him up you get little or no response? This "could" mean your hedgehog has gotten too cold and is attempting to hibernate. You then need to gradually warm your hedgie back up asap! One way would be to slip him under your shirt, allowing your body heat to do its work. Another way would be too wrap him up in a heated blanket or towel. Once your hedgie has warmed up and is once again awake AND alert, make sure to keep him warm. If for some reason your hedgehog does not come around, get him to a Vet as soon as possible, keeping him warm in the interim as this could be a sign of illness. **Placing a cold hedgehog on or under a heating device and thinking it will do the trick all on its own, does not always work, for your hedgehog might go off into a cold corner and continue to try and hibernate. It is important that you monitor the situation.
**Unless you get an abundance of natural bright light during the day in the room your hedgehog is kept, keep a light on in there throughout daylight hours. This will help simulate natural conditions, and ward off the tendency to hibernate as well.
IN CASE YOUR HEDGEHOG CHOKES:
Hopefully, you will never have to deal with
this situation, but I have known folks who have lost their hedgehogs due to them
choking on their food so I felt this was important enough to pass on.
Hold hedgie with his head on the palm of your hand, and the rest of his
body trailing up the underside of your forearm. Hold him at the 4:00
o'clock position. Shake him towards the floor a time or two. Now place
your other hand on top of him and firmly squeeze (compress) him with
your hand pressing down and your arm pressing up (like working a
bellows) twice. Listen. If needed, shake and compress again."
A SPOOF ON BATHEING YOUR HEDGEHOG:
1. Fill tub.
2. Check water temp.
3. Try to plop hedge in tub.
4. Hedgie sees bath and tries to escape up my shirt sleeve.
5. Remove hedgie from shirt sleeve.
6. Try to plop hedgie in tub.
7. Hedgie sees bath and tries to avoid it by latching on to my shirt sleeve.
8. Try to plop hedgie in tub.
9. Hedgie knows bath in inevitable but still won't comply.
10. Juggle hedgie as she tries to slip through my hands.
11. Try to plop hedgie in tub.
12. Finally, after many attempts and many minutes hedgie is finally in tub.
13. Empty & refill the tub because hedgie confused it for her litter box.
14. Cup water over hedgie to wet her down.
15. Get towel and dry off because somehow, the water ended up on me.
16. Try, once again, to cup water over hedgie.
17. Get towel and dry off because hedgie shook her quills off and you got wet again.
18. Empty & refill tub again because hedgie confused to tub for her litter box. Again.
19. Get out the shampoo.
20. Try to keep hedgie from climbing out of the tub.
21. Laugh as hedgie realizes the tub is too slippery for her to climb out of.
22. Laugh even harder as hedgie continues, unsuccessfully, to climb out of the tub.
23. Get out the tooth brush.
24. Try to keep hedgie from climbing out of the tub.
25. Laugh as, once again, hedgie realizes the tub is too slippery for her to climb out of.
26. Lather up the hedgie with some shampoo.
27. Try to wash hedgie as she runs circles around the tub.
28. Get a towel because you now have soap in your eye.
29. Scream because hedgie accidentally spiked you when she saw toothbrush coming at her.
30. Proceed to wash hedgie.
31. Empty & refill tub because hedgie had to use the little girl's room. again.
32. Scrub poopy feet with toothbrush.
33. Turn water on and cup it over hedgie to get the soap. off.
34. Get towel because, of course, you got wet again>
35. Inform hedgie it is not sanitary to drink bathwater>
36. Rinse remaining soap off hedgie.
37. Rinse remaining soap off yourself.
38. Wrap hedgie in a nice warm towel.
39. Wrap yourself in a towel.
40. Try to snuggle with hedgie while simultaneously convincing her she
needed a bath, the other animals were starting to complain of the smell.
41. Try to win forgiveness with a mealie.
42. If hedgie still won't budge, add a wax worm.
43. If attitude persists, throw a cricket into the mix.
44. Snuggle with hedgie.
45. Put hedgie in her bed to rest.
46. Put yourself in bed to rest.
47. Wake up and play with hedgie.
48. Scream in frustration because hedgie has poopy feet.
49. Put hedgie on floor for supervised play.
50. Cry because while your back was turned for 2 seconds, hedgie managed to anoint 3 times.
51. Refer to step 1.
Noises thats hedge hogs make:
HISSING, CLICKING AND BALLING UP:
Hedgehogs will ball and quill up, hiss, pop, and make clicking noises in reponse to both fear and annoyance. With a new hedgie, it is most likely in response to fear. Your hedgehog hasn't gotten the chance to know and trust you as of yet, but with a little patience and a lot of attention and handling, your pet should come around. Even very tame and friendly hedgies may respond this way when first picked up....especially if you've wakened them, but as in this case, should calm down quickly.
WHAT DOES THAT SOUND MEAN?
Soft Purring and Whistling: This is a sign of pure contentment.
Puffing: Displeasure, uncertainty.
Snorting or "Sneezing": Usually accompanies puffing and means the same thing.
Hissing and Clicking: These are warning sounds of irritation and or fear.
Snuffling: Happily checking things out.
Chirping: Usually done by males while breeding and by nursing babies.
Screaming: Physical pain or fear.
Sounds Heard During Sleep: Snoring, huffing, chirping are all common sounds made while their sleeping".
SOCIALIZING YOUR HEDGEHOG:
So you have a new hedgehog and he or she isn't much other then a sharp-quilled tight ball of hissing, popping, clicking attitude??!! Don't despair, this happens ALL the time and doesn't mean your pet will be this way forever. Hedgehogs act defensive for any number of reasons, a big one being just plain out of fright. Give your new pet some time to adjust....daily handling is important, even if its just to lay in your lap and sniff at you. Talk softly to your new baby, offer treats by hand (whatever they like the best; mealworms, bits of cooked unseasoned chicken etc). Now, take an old t-shirt, or a similar piece of cloth and wear it around all day long (make sure its nothing with loopy or lose threads). After your scent is embedded into it, slide it into your hedgies bed. This will give him the chance to become familiar with your smell and learn that it is not a threatening thing. Above all, have patience. It is rare for a hedgie to never come around, but it does sometimes take time, perserverance, and consistent handling. You cannot expect a hedgehog who is only paid attention to occasionally to be a loving, tame pet.
One way to help your friend warm up to you is by offering treats by hand.
One thing you can do to get your hedgehog used to you, is to place his/her somewhere on you with their food dish.
NAIL TRIMMING:
Trimming your hedgehog's toenails is something a lot of people feel intimidated by as it's not always as easy task unless you have a very tame and tolerant hedgehog! The easiest way I have found to trim my hedgie's nail are to put them in a couple inches of warm water, as this makes them open up. I then take hold of one foot at a time and useing a nail clipper (I use the same kind made for people), I carefully clip each nail. This can be a little difficult at first, until you get the hang of it as your hedgehog will probably be wanting to move around at the same time you have a hold of his foot. Be very careful not to twist a leg in the process! Make sure when your clipping the nails, not to cut too far back or you will cut the "quick" causing your hedgie to bleed. You can see the quick through the nails...it will look pink. Cut below it. If for some reason you do accidentally cause him to bleed (that happens to the best of us), make sure you keep a product called "STOP QUIK" on hand, dab a little bit on the nail and it will stop the bleeding. Flour will work in a pinch, but it is best to have Stop Quik available and next to the sink. I cut my hedgies nails every 2 or 3 weeks. They grow fast, and can quickly grow, curl under, and cut right into the soft pad of their feet, which will not only cause pain, but will also open them up to infection. Also, nails that are overgrown can cause foot deformities and make it difficult for your hedgie to run on his wheel.
If you need any more information please don't hesitate to contact me at dickysite@gmail.com
